Three Buttons, One Make: Drawing Your Way Out of a Sewing Slump
Photo: vintage button tin with assorted buttons spilling onto linen flat lay, via www.babeyond.com
There is a particular sort of stuck that visits a sewing table in November. The lamp is on, the machine is threaded, the kettle has done its bit, and still the fabric sits there like a dog waiting for a word it doesn't know. You want to make something. You don't want to make anything in particular. This is exactly where the button box earns its keep — not as storage, but as a small, rattly oracle.
The draw, and the rules that make it work
The method is almost embarrassingly simple. Tip the tin, look away, and take out three buttons. That's the brief.
The rules matter more than the draw:
- No auditioning. You may not rummage for a nicer one. Whatever your fingers close on first is in.
- No putting one back because it's the wrong colour, too big, or faintly chipped. The chip is part of the prompt.
- Lay them out in the order drawn, on a plain cloth, left to right. Position is information: the first button tends to become the loud one.
- Write the draw down. Date the page. You will want to look back at it, and you will be surprised how often the same sort of button comes up.
That's the whole ritual. It takes about forty seconds, which is roughly how long a creative block can be reasoned with before it settles in for the afternoon.
Reading the three
Now the interesting bit: turning plastic, shell and metal into decisions.
Colour. Name all three out loud, properly — not "blue" but "slate", "faded denim", "that greenish-grey of an old gate". One of them will be the feature, one will support it, one will be the detail you notice last. That order becomes your palette.
Size. The biggest button sets the scale of the whole make. A 25mm button has no business on a bookmark; an 11mm button will not close a coat. Let the largest dictate whether you're making something small and precise or something roomy and useful.
Material. Shiny and pearlised wants fine cotton, lawn, silk scraps — something with a bit of dress to it. Matte horn, wood and corozo want wool, linen, corduroy. Metal wants denim, canvas, waxed cotton, anything with backbone. Material tells you the weight of the fabric before colour gets a say.
Holes. Two holes take a simple bar or cross and look tidy and traditional. Four holes open up squares, parallel lines and decorative crosses — good for a feature button you want people to look at. A shank means thick fabric and a button that sits proud. No holes at all — a toggle, a sew-through ring — means you're building a fastening rather than attaching a button, and the project probably wants to be a bag or a cuff.
A worksheet you can copy into any notebook
Six columns, no more. Fill it in before you start cutting anything.
| Button | Colour (properly) | Diameter | Material | Holes | Job in the make |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Ivory with a faint pearl sheen | 20mm | Polyester pearl | 2 | Closure / focal point |
| 2 | Warm brown, slightly matte | 15mm | Horn | 4 | Decorative, sewn in a square |
| 3 | Pale grey | 11mm | Shell | 2 | Small detail near the edge |
The 'job' column is the one that unlocks things. Once a button has a job, you have a design.
Three makes, from three real draws
The plumb-line bookmark (twenty minutes)
Draw: a heavy 18mm metal button, a small 10mm shell, a 12mm wooden one.
Cut a strip of wool felt or grosgrain ribbon roughly 4cm by 20cm. Turn under and stitch the short ends. Sew the metal button about 2cm from one end — this is the weight, and it does a real job, holding the bookmark down in a book left open on the arm of a sofa. Set the shell button just above it and the wooden one above that, spaced by eye rather than by ruler. Use a doubled thread and a small backstitch; heavy buttons pull through felt otherwise.
The drawn needle book (an hour)
Draw: one large 22mm button with a shank, two small four-hole buttons in contrasting colours.
Cut two rectangles of wool felt, about 10cm by 13cm, and one slightly smaller for a page. Blanket stitch around the outer pair. The shank button becomes the closure on the front flap, with a loop of bias binding or a knotted hair elastic on the opposite edge. The two small four-hole buttons go on the front in a diagonal, stitched with a square pattern so the thread shows. Inside, a felt page pinned in with a couple of stab stitches holds needles and a couple of safety pins.
The mismatch cuff (an afternoon)
Draw: a big decorative button, a medium one, a tiny one — ideally three that clash slightly.
Cut a rectangle of medium-weight fabric about 20cm by 7cm, plus interfacing. Press the long edges under 1cm and stitch. Work a buttonhole at one end (or sew a fabric loop), and attach the big button at the other. The medium button sits centred on the cuff, the tiny one just off to its side, deliberately not symmetrical. Fasten with the big button through the hole or loop. It's a scrap project, essentially — a way of using up a fat quarter and three odd buttons at once, and it looks best when the three don't quite agree.
Companion fabrics without a trip to the shop
Match weight first, colour second. A chunky horn button on fine lawn is a mismatch of strength as much as of style; it will drag and pucker and you'll blame the button.
Then go shopping in your own cupboard. The back of a worn shirt, the hem of trousers past repair, a charity-shop napkin, a tea towel, the leg of a felted jumper — all of these are fabric. And for thread: if you can't match exactly, don't fudge it with the nearest thing. Either go one shade darker than the button, or choose contrast on purpose — ecru on navy, rust on oatmeal. If a button has a second colour hiding in it, a fleck or a rim, stitch in that colour. It's the trick that makes a make look considered rather than merely finished.
When the draw disappoints
You're allowed to redraw. What you're not allowed to do is quietly forget the first three. Keep them on the page, swap out one button only, and note why you swapped it. Over a month of draws, patterns emerge — you may find you keep pulling small dark buttons, which is probably the tin telling you something about what you actually want to be making.
The tin at the end of the table
Keep a separate prompt jar if you can: the odd ones, the chipped ones, the mismatched singles that will never find a partner. Don't let the good stock creep in. An oracle is only useful if it's allowed to be awkward, and a button box that occasionally hands you a lime-green plastic horror is doing its job properly.
So next time the fabric sits there and the idea won't come, don't open a browser. Open the tin. Three buttons, a pencil, and the rest is just sewing.